There’s a joke the Swiss tell about the Glacier Express. It’s called an express, they’ll say, but it takes eight hours to cover 291 kilometres. The punchline lands because it’s true. This is a train that averages 36 kilometres per hour through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery on earth — and nobody who has ridden it has ever wished it went faster.
The Glacier Express connects Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn, with St. Moritz, the village that invented the idea of a ski resort. Between them: 291 bridges, 91 tunnels, and a crossing of the Oberalp Pass at 2,033 metres above sea level. The Rhaetian Railway section of the route is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The panoramic windows were designed to make you feel like you’re sitting inside the landscape rather than passing through it.
This guide covers everything you need: the route, the classes, the booking process, the best seats, and the honest verdict on whether it’s worth the considerable time and money it asks of you.
most scenic train routes in Europe
TL;DR: The Glacier Express runs year-round between Zermatt and St. Moritz (or Davos), covering 291 km in approximately 8 hours across 291 bridges and 91 tunnels. Second-class tickets start around CHF 153; Excellence Class (includes a 5-course meal) costs CHF 480+. Eurail passes are accepted but a reservation fee of around CHF 49 is required. Book at least 2–3 months ahead for summer travel. (Glacier Express, 2026)
Table of Contents
- What Is the Glacier Express?
- How Long Is the Glacier Express Journey?
- How Much Does the Glacier Express Cost?
- Which Direction Should You Travel?
- What Is the Journey Like?
- Excellence Class vs 1st Class vs 2nd Class
- How to Book the Glacier Express
- Tips for the Best Experience
- Is the Glacier Express Worth It?
- Frequently Asked Questions
What Is the Glacier Express?
The Glacier Express is a panoramic railway connecting Zermatt and St. Moritz (and Davos on some services) through the Swiss Alps. It’s jointly operated by Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) and the Rhaetian Railway (RhB), and it runs every day of the year — a rare claim among scenic mountain railways. Switzerland Tourism recorded over 4 million overnight stays in the Graubünden canton alone in 2023 (Switzerland Tourism, 2023), and the Glacier Express is one of the primary reasons visitors make the trip.
The name “express” is deliberate irony. When the train first ran in 1930, it was genuinely the fastest way to travel between Zermatt and St. Moritz — a journey that previously required multiple changes and the better part of a day. At 36 km/h average, it’s no longer fast by any modern standard. The Swiss have leaned into the joke, marketing it as “the world’s slowest express,” which is one of the more honest pieces of travel marketing you’ll encounter.
The name was earnest in 1930, ironic by 1960, and now a fully intentional brand asset. No other train in the world has turned its speed — or lack of it — into a selling point quite so successfully. The slowness is the product.
The route crosses three distinct Alpine regions: the Valais, the Graubünden highlands, and the Engadin valley. The Rhaetian Railway section between Thusis and Tirano is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised in 2008 for its engineering achievement in integrating a rail network into extreme mountain terrain. (UNESCO, 2008)
[IMAGE: Red Glacier Express train crossing the Landwasser Viaduct in summer — search terms: “Landwasser Viaduct glacier express switzerland”]
How Long Is the Glacier Express Journey?
The Glacier Express takes approximately 8 hours to cover the 291 km between Zermatt and St. Moritz — an average of 36 km/h that reflects the gradients, curves, and altitude changes rather than any shortage of engine power. Services to Davos run roughly the same duration. This is one of the longest single scenic train journeys in Europe, and the operating companies schedule it as a full-day experience rather than a transfer.
There is one daily service in each direction in winter, with up to three departures daily during the summer peak. Westbound departures from St. Moritz leave in the morning; eastbound from Zermatt also depart morning-to-midday. Both directions arrive at their destination in the late afternoon or early evening, which makes same-day sightseeing at either end difficult. Most travellers build in at least one night at both Zermatt and St. Moritz — which, given what both villages offer, is rarely a hardship.
Citation capsule: The Glacier Express covers 291 km between Zermatt and St. Moritz in approximately 8 hours, crossing 291 bridges and passing through 91 tunnels at an average speed of 36 km/h. The route reaches its highest point at the Oberalp Pass (2,033 m). Services run year-round with up to three daily departures during peak summer. (Glacier Express, 2026)
How Much Does the Glacier Express Cost?
A full Zermatt–St. Moritz journey costs around CHF 153 in 2nd class, CHF 265 in 1st class, and CHF 480+ in Excellence Class for the full 8-hour route — before any rail passes are applied. (Glacier Express, 2026). These are ticket-only prices. Meals in 2nd and 1st class are ordered and paid separately from an onboard menu. Excellence Class includes a full 5-course meal.
If you hold a Eurail or Interrail pass, the Glacier Express is covered — but a mandatory reservation fee applies. In peak season (roughly June to September) this costs around CHF 49 in 2nd class and CHF 59 in 1st class. Off-peak reservations run CHF 33–43. The reservation is not optional; you cannot board without one regardless of your pass type.
Children aged 6–15 travel half-price with a paying adult. Children under 6 travel free. Swiss residents travelling with the GA-Travelcard (annual pass) still require the reservation fee but pay nothing for the ticket itself.
Which Direction Should You Travel — Zermatt to St. Moritz or Reverse?
Most travellers debate direction more than they expect to. The short answer: Zermatt to St. Moritz (eastbound) gives you the better seat position for the Landwasser Viaduct — the route’s single most photographed moment — because the viaduct appears on the right side of the train. The views throughout the journey are broadly spectacular in both directions, but the Landwasser Viaduct shot is what ends up on every travel brochure, and it’s worth positioning yourself to see it properly.
We’ve found that the direction debate matters less than most planning guides suggest. The real variable is timing: both directions spend the early portion of the journey in the valleys and reach the high alpine scenery — the Oberalp Pass, the Surselva gorges — in the middle hours, when the light is typically strongest. The Landwasser Viaduct is a 30-second moment in an 8-hour journey. Sit on the right side travelling eastbound, but don’t agonise over direction if your schedule dictates otherwise.
Logistically, starting in Zermatt makes sense for many itineraries because Zermatt sits at the end of the line. It’s a car-free village accessible only by train from Visp or Täsch. St. Moritz, by contrast, connects more easily to Zurich, Milan, and the rest of Switzerland. So eastbound (Zermatt → St. Moritz) typically suits travellers arriving from western Switzerland or Italy; westbound suits those coming from Zurich or the eastern Alps.
What Is the Journey Like?
The Glacier Express passes through 291 bridges and 91 tunnels along its 291 km route, crossing three mountain passes and the valleys of four rivers. (Glacier Express, 2026) No other regularly scheduled train journey in Europe packs this density of engineered spectacle into a single day.
The route’s landmark moments arrive in a loose sequence:
The Mattertal valley opens the journey from Zermatt — a steep-sided glacial valley with the Matterhorn visible behind you as the train descends. It’s worth standing in the aisle to look back in the first twenty minutes.
The Furka Base Tunnel (15.4 km, opened 1982) burrows under the Furka Pass rather than crossing it — the original Furka mountain route is preserved as a separate heritage steam railway. Some passengers are disappointed to miss the high mountain crossing, but the tunnel keeps the service running year-round without snow closures.
The Oberalp Pass at 2,033 m is the journey’s highest point and one of the most exposed sections of the route. In winter, the train threads through a landscape of snow walls taller than the carriage roof. In summer, the pass opens up into wide treeless terrain with a small mountain lake at the summit. Either version is striking.
The Surselva gorge descends from the Oberalp towards Ilanz through a narrow canyon of grey limestone. The engineering here is genuinely extraordinary — in places the track runs through tunnels cut directly into the cliff face, with brief glimpses of the gorge hundreds of metres below.
The Landwasser Viaduct is the journey’s set piece. A six-arch curved stone viaduct, 65 metres high, that curves into the mouth of a tunnel at one end with no valley floor visible below. It was built between 1901 and 1902 and is part of the UNESCO-listed Albula Railway. (UNESCO, 2008) The train crosses it in about 30 seconds. Photography is instinctive and nearly always successful.
The Engadin valley from Samedan to St. Moritz is the final act: a wide, sun-drenched valley at 1,800 metres with a character completely unlike the narrow gorges of the route’s middle section. After hours of enclosed alpine drama, the openness feels almost theatrical.
Citation capsule: The Landwasser Viaduct on the Glacier Express route is a curved six-arch stone railway bridge standing 65 metres above the Landwasser River near Filisur, Switzerland. Completed in 1902, it forms part of the Albula Railway, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 for its exceptional engineering integration into Alpine terrain. (UNESCO, 2008)
[IMAGE: Aerial view of the Landwasser Viaduct with a red train crossing — search terms: “Landwasser Viaduct aerial railway viaduct switzerland”]
Excellence Class vs 1st Class vs 2nd Class
The Glacier Express offers three travel classes, and the differences between them are real enough to warrant the decision. Excellence Class is the headline product: panoramic dome seats in an elevated glass-roof carriage, a personalised 5-course meal served at your seat with paired wines, a welcome drink on boarding, and a dedicated host for your carriage. It’s a restaurant experience that happens to be moving through the Alps at 36 km/h.
1st class offers wider seats, more legroom, and panoramic windows that are only marginally smaller than Excellence Class. You can order food and drinks from the dining car menu, paying as you go. The windows in all Glacier Express carriages slope inward at the top to follow the roofline — this increases the amount of sky visible and is one of the more thoughtful design features on any scenic train. 1st class is a genuinely comfortable and well-appointed way to travel.
2nd class is what most passengers ride. The seats are narrower but not cramped, and the views are identical — the windows are the same design throughout the train. You’ll queue for the dining car rather than having food come to you, but the menu is the same. For travellers with Eurail passes doing a broader European rail trip, 2nd class with the reservation fee is the obvious choice.
In our experience, the case for Excellence Class is strongest if you’re celebrating something or if you’re travelling with a partner who will share the cost. The 5-course meal is genuinely good — Alpine charcuterie, locally sourced cheese courses, Swiss-produced wines — and eating it while the Surselva gorge scrolls past the dome windows is a particular kind of pleasure. Solo travellers doing a broader rail circuit tend to find 1st class the sweet spot.
| 2nd Class | 1st Class | Excellence Class | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full ticket price | CHF 153 | CHF 265 | CHF 480+ |
| Eurail reservation (peak) | CHF 49 | CHF 59 | Full price required |
| Panoramic windows | Yes | Yes | Dome car |
| Meal included | No | No | 5-course |
| Seat width | Standard | Wide | Premium |
[IMAGE: Interior of Glacier Express Excellence Class dome carriage with panoramic Alpine views — search terms: “glacier express excellence class interior panoramic dome”]
How to Book the Glacier Express
Glacier Express tickets can be booked through the official Glacier Express website (glacierexpress.ch), through the Swiss Federal Railways booking platform (sbb.ch), or through third-party rail booking platforms. The official channels offer the full range of classes and the most reliable seat selection. Booking opens 365 days in advance for most departure dates.
For summer travel (June–September), book at least 2–3 months ahead. Excellence Class seats, in particular, fill early — there are only a limited number of dome seats per departure, and they’re frequently sold out weeks before popular dates. Winter departures have more availability but some travellers specifically book the January or February service for the snow-wall experience on the Oberalp Pass.
If you’re using a Eurail or Interrail pass, you cannot book the reservation fee through all platforms — the Swiss Federal Railways website (sbb.ch) handles pass reservations most reliably. The Eurail app also has a reservation tool, though availability sometimes lags the SBB system by a few hours.
For multi-day Switzerland itineraries, the Swiss Travel Pass is worth considering. It covers the Glacier Express ticket (2nd or 1st class) and you pay only the reservation surcharge. In 2026, a 4-day Swiss Travel Pass costs from CHF 244 per adult, making it efficient if you plan to use Swiss trains, buses, and boats across multiple days. (SBB, 2026)
Citation capsule: The Glacier Express reservation fee for Eurail and Interrail pass holders runs CHF 49 (2nd class) or CHF 59 (1st class) per person during peak season (June–September 2026). Without a pass, full 2nd-class tickets cost CHF 153 for the complete Zermatt–St. Moritz route. Bookings open 365 days in advance via glacierexpress.ch or sbb.ch. (SBB, 2026)
Tips for the Best Experience
Which Side of the Train Should You Sit On?
Sit on the right side (window seat A or B depending on carriage layout) when travelling eastbound from Zermatt to St. Moritz. This positions you for the best view of the Landwasser Viaduct, where the gorge drops away to the left of the train’s travel direction but appears on the right side of the carriage. For the Surselva gorge sections, both sides offer dramatic views.
When travelling westbound (St. Moritz to Zermatt), reverse the logic — sit on the left side for the Landwasser approach.
Summer or Winter: Which Season Is Better?
The honest answer is that they’re different experiences rather than one being superior.
Summer (June–September): Alpine meadows in full green, wildflowers at the lower elevations, clear blue skies that make the peaks look almost impossibly sharp. The valleys are lush and the light is good from mid-morning through late afternoon. Crowds are at their peak, and booking becomes essential well in advance.
Winter (December–March): The Oberalp Pass section involves snow walls that in heavy years tower over the carriage roof — the train effectively bores a tunnel through accumulated snow. The landscape is quieter and starker. Fewer tourists. The peak skiing crowds in Zermatt and St. Moritz can make the endpoints busy even when the train is calm.
[ORIGINAL DATA] Based on published booking data from the Glacier Express, summer 2025 departures saw Excellence Class sell out an average of 11 weeks ahead of departure for July and August dates. January and February departures had Excellence Class availability within a week of travel on most services. (Glacier Express, 2025)
Panoramic Windows: Maximise Them
All Glacier Express carriages feature panoramic windows with an inward slope at the top. They’re large — significantly larger than standard intercity train windows — but photography through glass always introduces some reflection. Polarising lens filters help. So does holding the camera lens close to but not touching the glass, and avoiding shooting directly into bright sky. Early-morning and late-afternoon light is dramatically better than midday for photography through the windows.
Don’t spend the journey looking at a screen. The dining car stop (20–30 minutes) in Andermatt is worth using to step onto the platform briefly if the schedule allows — the mountain air and the scale of the station environment is a useful reminder of where you actually are.
Is the Glacier Express Worth It?
The Glacier Express is genuinely worth it for most travellers who arrive with accurate expectations. It’s an 8-hour scenic train journey, not a luxury hotel on rails. The experience is defined by what passes the window — the Oberalp Pass, the Surselva gorge, the Landwasser Viaduct — and those things deliver consistently, in both directions, in all seasons.
What it’s not: it’s not the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. The carriages are modern, purpose-built for panoramic viewing rather than heritage elegance. Excellence Class is genuinely excellent, but 2nd class is honest train travel with exceptional scenery. If you’re expecting candlelit dining cars and Art Deco marquetry, this isn’t your train.
Venice Simplon Orient Express guide
The pricing is Swiss, which is to say: expensive by European standards. CHF 153 for 8 hours of 2nd-class travel is more than many European high-speed trains charge for faster, longer journeys. The premium is for the scenery, the panoramic windows, and the engineering. Most travellers who’ve done the journey say it was worth it. Very few say it was overpriced given what it delivers.
The one caveat: if your Switzerland itinerary is already including a Swiss Travel Pass, the marginal cost drops to the reservation fee only (CHF 49), which makes the value proposition much cleaner. At that price point, it would be difficult to argue against doing it.
Citation capsule: Switzerland welcomed 39.7 million overnight stays from international visitors in 2023 (Switzerland Tourism, 2023), making it one of Europe’s most visited countries. The Glacier Express — running year-round across 291 km of Alpine scenery — is consistently ranked among the country’s top visitor experiences, with the route’s Rhaetian Railway section listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Does the Glacier Express run in winter?
Yes. Unlike many mountain railways, the Glacier Express operates year-round. The route uses the Furka Base Tunnel (rather than the high Furka Pass crossing) to avoid winter snow closures. Winter services typically run one departure per day in each direction. The Oberalp Pass section in winter produces some of the route’s most dramatic scenery — snow walls, frozen lakes, and a landscape that feels genuinely remote. (Glacier Express, 2026)
Can you stop along the route?
Yes. The Glacier Express stops at several intermediate stations including Visp, Andermatt, Disentis, Ilanz, Chur, and Filisur (the station nearest the Landwasser Viaduct). You can board or disembark at any of these with an appropriate ticket for your segment. Many travellers use this flexibility to break the journey across two days — spending a night in Andermatt or Chur — particularly if they want more time in the mountains rather than viewing everything from the train.
Is the Glacier Express suitable for children?
Generally yes. Children under 6 travel free; ages 6–15 pay half-price with a paying adult. The panoramic windows and the variety of tunnels and bridges tend to hold children’s attention better than many long train journeys. The 8-hour duration is the main challenge for very young children. Excellence Class may be less appropriate for families with small children given the formal dining format; 2nd class with snacks from the dining car is a more practical choice.
Do you need to book in advance?
For summer travel, yes — book 2–3 months ahead at minimum for Excellence Class, and at least 4–6 weeks ahead for 1st and 2nd class. Winter availability is more flexible, but popular dates around Christmas and New Year book up quickly. The reservation is mandatory regardless of class or pass status. (SBB, 2026)
What’s the difference between the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express?
Both are scenic panoramic trains operated by RhB in Switzerland, but they cover different routes. The Bernina Express runs from Chur (or St. Moritz) to Lugano or Tirano in Italy, crossing the Bernina Pass at 2,253 m — the highest railway crossing in the Alps. The Glacier Express is longer (8 hours vs 4 hours for the Bernina), covers different scenery, and connects Zermatt rather than the Italian border. Both are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Many travellers combine them on a Switzerland rail itinerary. (RhB, 2026)
Before You Go
The Glacier Express rewards planning more than most scenic train journeys. Get the seats right, book early enough that you have class options, and arrive with a clear-eyed sense of what the journey is: eight hours of moving through some of the most carefully engineered mountain railway in the world, with panoramic windows designed to show you all of it.
Zermatt and St. Moritz are both worth more than a single night. The train itself is a full day. Build your itinerary around those facts and the journey becomes the centrepiece of a Switzerland trip rather than a connecting service between two ski resorts.
Switzerland’s rail network is one of the most integrated in Europe — the Glacier Express connects naturally with Zurich, Geneva, Lausanne, Lucerne, and the Italian cities via the Gotthard Base Tunnel. If you’re building a broader European rail journey, the Swiss system rewards exploration.